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MATERIALS & CARE INSTRUCTIONS

LINOLEUM

Forbo Furniture Linoleum not only looks elegant and high quality, it also has a very pleasant feel. In direct contact with the skin, it is pleasant and warm because it adapts to the ambient temperature. Another important advantage over many other coating materials is that fingerprints remain largely invisible.

 

What is linoleum made of?


As is so often the case, chance had a hand in the invention of linoleum. The English chemist Sir Frederick Walton observed how a kneadable and mouldable skin formed on the surface of dried linseed oil. To speed up the process, he added cork flour, limestone flour and resins to the linseed oil in experiments - the same ingredients that still form the main components of the elastic mass today and that are pressed onto a carrier material (mostly jute). Thus, linoleum is a true natural product, made from 100 percent organic and mineral raw materials, of which more than 80 percent are renewable.

 

How sensitive is linoleum?


Thanks to its natural components, linoleum brings with it a unique combination of properties that are much sought after in the kitchen. It is resistant to oils and fats, largely insensitive to heat, flame retardant, bacteriostatic, hygienic and easy to clean. In short: the material is made for tough everyday kitchen use.

Be careful with colouring foods such as red wine, coffee or ketchup! They can leave stains if left on for a long time and are therefore best removed straight away.

Another point that is important:

Too little exposure to sunlight can lead to the formation of what is known as a "hoarfrost haze" on the surface of the linoleum. This dark yellowing can make blue or grey worktops appear slightly greenish. Beige surfaces then tend to have a yellow tinge. With a little daylight, however, this process can be reversed. Thanks to its antistatic surface, dust formation on linoleum worktops is also kept within limits.

 

 What colours is linoleum available in?


We buy our linoleum from Forbo. Enclosed you will find the colour chart with its 20 possible colours.

The edges of the linoleum worktops or fronts consist of either the classic multiplex edge or edges made of natural or smoked oak. All 3 variants require regular maintenance. You can find the instructions for this under Care instructions wood.The wooden edges are treated with a transparent natural oil, Since this is a natural material, colour irregularities may occur along the edges.

 

Naturally hygienic & antistatic


Due to its formula, linoleum has antistatic properties and therefore does not need to be chemically treated like other products. The permanent antistatic properties are, of course, a clear advantage over other coating materials in terms of dust formation and make this material much easier to clean and more hygienic than other surfaces.

 

DAILY CARE


Daily care is carried out with a soft, lint-free damp cloth. If necessary, add a splash of neutral cleaner to the wiping water for light soiling. Heavy soiling can be removed with a neutral cleaner (diluted), then wipe the surface with clean water. If necessary, treat the surface with a care product.

 

STAIN TREATMENT


Stains and adhesive residues must be removed immediately with a soft cloth and water. Dried-on adhesive residues can be removed with a turpentine substitute. Afterwards, the surface should always be wiped thoroughly with a damp cloth. Do not use aggressive solvents!

Note:
Stain formation due to water-permeable flower pots, vases or similar objects can be avoided by using suitable bases or coasters!

 

Hand and equipment disinfectants can cause staining due to their high solvent content. If the linoleum surface needs to be disinfected, please use only surface disinfectants suitable for linoleum and test them beforehand on a sample piece or on an invisible spot.

Colouring foodstuffs (e.g. ketchup, red wine, coffee, etc.) can leave stains if left on for a long time, which may not be able to be removed. Please clean the surface immediately if it is contaminated.

Do not place newspapers wet on the desktop material, as moisture can dissolve the printing ink.

The desktop material can only withstand heat up to 70°.

Rule of thumb: If you can still touch the object to be put down in relation to the heat emitted, then you can also put it down on the desktop material.

 

Furniture Linoleum is a very easy-care and robust material. This natural, slightly elastic material is still made from renewable raw materials. The formula of linseed oil, resins, wood and limestone flour creates antistatic properties "by nature" and makes fingerprints largely invisible.

A factory finish protects the material from scratching. An additional coating is not necessary. In special cases, an additional protective layer, e.g. a UV varnish, can be applied.

 

Colour variations


Furniture Linoleum is made from natural, renewable raw materials, therefore slight colour deviations may occur in different batches. This should be taken into account when reordering.

 

Drying chamber film

A yellowish film - the so-called drying chamber film - may appear on desktop. This phenomenon is particularly visible with light colours. When the material is exposed to light, this film disappears relatively quickly - depending on the light intensity - and the product regains its original colour. This natural process can recur as soon as the material is covered.

 

Daily cleaning

Daily maintenance cleaning is carried out with a soft, lint-free damp cloth.

If necessary, add a splash of neutral cleaner to the wiping water for light soiling. Heavy soiling can be removed with a neutral cleaner (diluted), then wipe the surface with clean water. If necessary, treat the surface with a care product.

 

Note

Remove stains and adhesive residues immediately with a soft cloth and water. Dried-on adhesive residues can be removed with a turpentine substitute. Afterwards, the surface should always be wiped thoroughly with a damp cloth. Do not use aggressive solvents!

Stain formation due to water-permeable flower pots, vases or similar objects can be avoided by using suitable bases or coasters!

The detailed cleaning and care instructions are available for download.

 

Wooden panels are robust, easy to repair and easy to refurbish if the surface is damaged. Because wood can absorb both moisture and heat, it helps to improve the indoor environment. Wood is also antibacterial.

Stain Prevention

If you want to enjoy your oiled wooden worktops for a long time, you should take care not to let dirt build up in the first place. Bottles and glasses that are likely to spill should only be placed on the tops with coasters. Direct sunlight can cause the wood to darken. If discolouration occurs, the area can be sanded and re-oiled. In general, dirt should be removed immediately so that it does not become a problem in the first place.

Liquids on the surface

Ensure that any spilled liquid is wiped up immediately with a clean, dry cloth. Liquids should not remain on the surface for long.

Cutting board

Do not cut directly on the work surface. Place a cutting board or butcher's block on the worktop.

No direct contact

Do not place hot, wet or dirty pots and pans on the worktop. The worktop needs extra protection from such things; stainless steel trivets are the perfect addition and can be purchased with your worktop. Most metal containers (e.g. tin and aluminium cans, iron, copper or steel containers) can discolour wood. Contact between metal and wood should therefore be avoided.

Maintenance

Wipe the worktops regularly with a damp (not wet), lint-free cloth using warm water and a small amount of soap. We recommend that you do not use multi-purpose cleaners that contain chemicals as they may damage the worktops. Please also avoid using scouring pads. If a scouring pad is used, the worktop may need to be re-oiled afterwards.

Maintenance oils

To maintain the good quality of your solid wood worktop, you should oil it regularly. Wood is a natural material. Proper oiling is important to ensure a long life without damage. During the first few weeks of use, special care should be taken to ensure that the necessary oil protection is built up. Above all, there must be no liquids on the surface. If the surface is shiny and dripping, this is a sign that the worktop is in good condition.

If the surface is dull and droplets form, you need to re-oil the worktop. You should reapply oil to prevent damage. New worktops often need to be treated again to maintain the protective layer. Depending on wear and tear, you should re-oil regularly. We generally recommend oiling at least every three months.

Propper Cleaning and Maintenance of wooden Furniture

Despite the protective layer of oil, wood panels are not completely protected from dirt and wear. Proper maintenance is essential.

Light dirt and minor stains can usually be removed with a damp, dry cloth. Then wipe with a dry cloth to ensure that the furniture is completely dry.

Cotton, linen, cellulose or microfibre cloths are suitable for cleaning. However, microfibre cloths can leave scratches on the surface due to their abrasive nature. If the cloth is rubbed too hard over the surface, unattractive colour variations may appear on the wood. It is therefore important to test the stain on an inconspicuous area before rubbing the visible surface. If the stain cannot be removed in this way, pH neutral cleaners can be used. The detergent should be used in small doses. Heavy soiling, dents or scratches can be sanded off and a new coat of oil applied. Dust should be removed with a feather duster or duster cloth.

Oil Treatment

To protect the wood, the surface is treated with oil, which makes the wood water-repellent and protects it from dirt. Hard oil has the advantage over varnish that it is absorbed into the wood. A layer of varnish can be removed under high mechanical stress, but the protection remains intact on oiled surfaces. The oil gives the surface a silky matt finish and the natural feel of the wood is retained.

Oiled pieces can be refreshed.

Simply clean and sand the surface. Sand in the direction of the grain. For the final sanding, use very fine sandpaper to achieve a smooth surface.

Thoroughly remove any sanding dust from the surface before oiling. The oil can be applied with a paint roller or a soft cloth until the surface looks slightly damp. Allow the oil to soak in for about a quarter of an hour and wipe off any excess. Leave the board to dry overnight and repeat the process the following day. To maintain the protection, you should re-oil your boards once or twice a year.

We recommend the "Monocoat" or "Naturhaus" products we use.

Cleaning
Has your MDF become dirty and needs cleaning? You can clean the treated surfaces with NATURHAUS CLEAN & POLISH. This is a care soap for cleaning oiled surfaces. The soap thoroughly removes dirt and grease and preserves the matt, natural appearance. We recommend a waiting period of 5 days before the first cleaning with soap and water.

Please do not use grease-dissolving cleaning agents, as they would damage the oil layer on the front !!!

Care - Renovation
Is the surface of your MDF slowly losing its silky look? Then you can use Rubio Monocoat Refresh Eco to freshen it up. Rubio Monocoat Refresh Eco is a ready-to-use spray for refreshing and touching up all wood surfaces protected by oil.

But don't wait until your MDF starts to fade. Apply Rubio Monocoat Refresh Eco in good time. Rubio Monocoat Refresh Eco is also recommended for touching up minimal scratches.

FENIX, the innovative material from Arpa Industriale, has revolutionised the world of interior design. It is not only beautiful to look at, but above all a high-tech material from nanotechnology, which is unique due to its properties.

FENIX NTM® is made from 70% cellulose and the latest generation of acrylic resins. Heat and pressure act simultaneously on the material during rolling, resulting in a uniform product that has a high density and is non-porous. The surface undergoes a process of electron beam curing, which hardens it and gives it its very own FENIX NTM® properties.

Due to the low light reflection, the surface is extremely matt, has a pleasantly soft feel and offers very good protection against fingerprints and dirt of all kinds. Even with creamed fingers, prints are almost invisible. In case of superficial micro-scratches, the material can be thermally repaired by carefully "ironing" small scratches with an iron and a thin cloth, which works very well.

In addition, FENIX NTM® is antistatic, antibacterial, water-repellent and mould-resistant. According to a study, food can be safely processed on it.

And the new material is also very durable, resistant and easy to clean. It can be cleaned with common household cleaners and also withstands acids well. The material can be used for worktops, kitchen backsplashes, kitchen fronts and side panels. A uniform design of entire kitchen rooms made of just one material is no problem with FENIX NTM®.

However, FENIX NTM® does have one weakness: you should be careful with hot pots and pans and always use a trivet.

 

Daily care

  • Just like any other interior design material, FENIX surfaces should be cleaned regularly. You do not need any special tools, just a cloth moistened with warm water or gentle cleaning agents. Almost all household cleaners or disinfectants are perfectly tolerated. For the usual stains, it is sufficient to clean the surface with warm water and a non-abrasive cloth.

  • Particularly good cleaning results are achieved by using a dirt eraser and a little washing-up liquid.

 

Special care

  • In the case of heavy soiling that cannot be removed with standard household cleaners, we recommend cleaning with benzine and a dirt eraser.

 

Removing scratches with an iron

  • Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

  • Place a damp piece of kitchen roll on the scratched area.

  • Place a hot iron on the piece of kitchen roll and leave it there for no more than 10 minutes.

  • Wipe the treated area with lukewarm water and a microfibre cloth.

  • The surface should now be intact again.

 

Removing scratches with the dirt eraser

  • Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

  • Rub the scratched area with a dry or slightly damp dirt eraser.

  • The surface should now be intact again.

 

Contamination_ Recommended cleaning

  • Syrup, fruit juice, milk, tea, coffee, wine, soap, paint Damp sponge or dirt eraser

  • Animal fats, sauces, dry blood, dirt eraser with washing-up liquid

  • Dried-up alcohol, egg, glue, dried-up organic waste, dirt eraser with hot water and washing-up liquid

  • Hair spray, cooking oil, wax, biros Alcohol or benzine with a dirt eraser

  • Make-up, sharpie, graffiti, nail varnish First remove nail varnish with nail varnish remover (on a cloth or Zewa)

  • and then clean the surface with a dirt eraser, or remove graffiti with petroleum ether and a dirt eraser.

  • Synthetic oil paints Nitro thinner with a damp cloth

  • Neoprene adhesive trichloroethane with a damp cloth

  • Carefully scrape off silicone residues with a wooden or plastic spatula without damaging the surface.

  • Lime cleaner with a maximum of 10% acetic or citric acid.

 

Here are a few videos about it:

https://www.fenixforinteriors.com/de/maintenance-cleaning

Download
FENIX Reinigungs- und Reparaturanleitung
Adobe Acrobat Dokument 731.9 KB

 

FENIX, the innovative material from Arpa Industriale, has revolutionised the world of interior design. It is not only beautiful to look at, but above all a high-tech material from nanotechnology, which is unique due to its properties.

FENIX NTM® is made from 70% cellulose and the latest generation of acrylic resins. Heat and pressure act simultaneously on the material during rolling, resulting in a uniform product that has a high density and is non-porous. The surface undergoes a process of electron beam curing, which hardens it and gives it its very own FENIX NTM® properties.

Due to the low light reflection, the surface is extremely matt, has a pleasantly soft feel and offers very good protection against fingerprints and dirt of all kinds. Even with creamed fingers, prints are almost invisible. In case of superficial micro-scratches, the material can be thermally repaired by carefully "ironing" small scratches with an iron and a thin cloth, which works very well.

In addition, FENIX NTM® is antistatic, antibacterial, water-repellent and mould-resistant. According to a study, food can be safely processed on it.

And the new material is also very durable, resistant and easy to clean. It can be cleaned with common household cleaners and also withstands acids well. The material can be used for worktops, kitchen backsplashes, kitchen fronts and side panels. A uniform design of entire kitchen rooms made of just one material is no problem with FENIX NTM®.

However, FENIX NTM® does have one weakness: you should be careful with hot pots and pans and always use a trivet.

 

Daily care

  • Just like any other interior design material, FENIX surfaces should be cleaned regularly. You do not need any special tools, just a cloth moistened with warm water or gentle cleaning agents. Almost all household cleaners or disinfectants are perfectly tolerated. For the usual stains, it is sufficient to clean the surface with warm water and a non-abrasive cloth.

  • Particularly good cleaning results are achieved by using a dirt eraser and a little washing-up liquid.

 

Special care

  • In the case of heavy soiling that cannot be removed with standard household cleaners, we recommend cleaning with benzine and a dirt eraser.

 

Removing scratches with an iron

  • Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

  • Place a damp piece of kitchen roll on the scratched area.

  • Place a hot iron on the piece of kitchen roll and leave it there for no more than 10 minutes.

  • Wipe the treated area with lukewarm water and a microfibre cloth.

  • The surface should now be intact again.

 

Removing scratches with the dirt eraser

  • Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

  • Rub the scratched area with a dry or slightly damp dirt eraser.

  • The surface should now be intact again.

 

Contamination_ Recommended cleaning

  • Syrup, fruit juice, milk, tea, coffee, wine, soap, paint Damp sponge or dirt eraser

  • Animal fats, sauces, dry blood, dirt eraser with washing-up liquid

  • Dried-up alcohol, egg, glue, dried-up organic waste, dirt eraser with hot water and washing-up liquid

  • Hair spray, cooking oil, wax, biros Alcohol or benzine with a dirt eraser

  • Make-up, sharpie, graffiti, nail varnish First remove nail varnish with nail varnish remover (on a cloth or Zewa)

  • and then clean the surface with a dirt eraser, or remove graffiti with petroleum ether and a dirt eraser.

  • Synthetic oil paints Nitro thinner with a damp cloth

  • Neoprene adhesive trichloroethane with a damp cloth

  • Carefully scrape off silicone residues with a wooden or plastic spatula without damaging the surface.

  • Lime cleaner with a maximum of 10% acetic or citric acid.

 

Here are a few videos about it:

https://www.fenixforinteriors.com/de/maintenance-cleaning

Download
FENIX Reinigungs- und Reparaturanleitung
Adobe Acrobat Dokument 731.9 KB

 

Brass is an alloy of various metals, mainly zinc and copper. The metal has a yellowish, golden hue that can vary depending on the exact composition of the alloy. Copper is mainly obtained from ores. The main copper ores are chalcopyrite, sphalerite and copper shale.

Pure copper has a lustrous reddish-brown colour. When exposed to air, the surface oxidises over time to form a dark brown, matt protective layer. This process makes the metal largely resistant to weathering. The reason for this is the interaction of carbon dioxide and oxygen in a humid environment. In high concentrations, the oxide layer can develop a bright green patina, also known as rust.

Patina is not to be confused with verdigris. Verdigris destroys copper and is extremely toxic.

If you want to clean brass, you don't need any special cleaning products. We will show you some home remedies and explain what to look out for when cleaning brass.

 

Remove dust

Wipe the item with a dry or damp cloth or rag. This also works for painted and coated items.

Remove fingerprints or grease

Soapy water can help. Simply wipe the item with a sponge or cloth and a little soapy water.

Remove dirt and oxide from shiny brass/copper if patina is not desired

Soak the item in boiling vinegar for a few minutes. Remove with a small sieve, rinse under running water and polish with a dry cloth.

Alternatively, you can brush the item with buttermilk. Rinse after a few minutes and polish dry.

The acid will only react with the oxide and will not attack the brass layer.

To remove and polish stubborn stains

Mix equal parts water, vinegar and flour. Apply the paste to the item in a circular motion and leave to soak for 10 minutes. If necessary, rub a little longer and harder. Rinse off and rub dry.

With these products you should be able to clean and, if necessary, polish most brass items in your home.

You don't need any special cleaning products.

 

What is the difference between patina and verdigris?

Patina is sometimes colloquially referred to as "verdigris". This term is incorrect!

Verdigris is a water-soluble salt of acetic acid combined with copper and is often confused with patina because of its colour. However, because of its water-solubility, it can never provide a protective function and, in the absence of acetic acid, does not occur in the garden.

The natural brown or green coating on copper surfaces consists mainly of non-toxic Cu(I) oxide and should not be confused with verdigris.

In short, none of the visible green copper surfaces in outdoor areas are actually verdigris, but rather patina or other non-toxic copper compounds.

Dipl.-Ing. M. Werner - German Copper Institute e.V.

 

Patina

Grey-green surface layer on copper and copper alloys consisting of basic carbonates and sulphates formed by reaction with carbon and sulphur dioxide in the air. Patina, also known as "noble rust", protects copper from weathering. In its distinctive green form, patina appears after approximately 8 to 15 years on flat surfaces exposed to heavy rainfall, depending on the amount of rainfall and the composition of the water.

 

Verdigris

Chemically speaking, verdigris is actually copper acetate. It is formed when copper comes into contact with acetic acid. However, verdigris is also the colloquial term for the patina that forms on copper and other materials such as brass and wood as a result of weathering and exposure to the elements. In the open air, verdigris can quickly form on metal objects or between paving stones.

WHAT IS CORIAN?
THE COMPOSITION OF DUPONT™ CORIAN®.

DuPont™ Corian®, the solid, non-porous, homogeneous surface material from DuPont, is composed of approximately one-third acrylic resin (also known as polymethyl methacrylate, or PMMA) and two-thirds natural minerals.

The main ingredient in Corian® is the mineral aluminium hydroxide (ATH), which is extracted from bauxite (aluminium ore).

Key properties

Since its introduction in 1967, DuPont™ Corian® has proven to be a durable and user-friendly material.

In everyday use, it resists impact, scratching and wear, even in high-traffic areas.

HYGIENE Non-porous, solid DuPont™ Corian® can be optically machined without joints, providing a highly hygienic surface. It does not support the growth of bacteria or mould.

EASE OF CLEANING DuPont™ Corian® surfaces are usually easy to clean with a conventional mild detergent and a scouring pad. Damage caused by scorching, for example, can be easily repaired.

Damage caused by improper handling can also usually be repaired in the field without having to replace the material.

NON-TOXIC DuPont™ Corian® is an inert, non-toxic material. There is no gas evolution at normal temperatures. When burned, the material emits mainly carbon dioxide. The smoke is visually clear and contains no toxic halogenated gases. These properties make DuPont™ Corian® ideal for use in public spaces and high-traffic areas such as airport check-in counters and hospital and hotel surfaces.

MULTIPLE Only the imagination of the beholder limits the applications of DuPont™ Corian®.

The material can be joined without visible seams, allowing almost unlimited design freedom.

Long counters, for example, can be made in sections in the workshop and then joined together on site. Edges can be reinforced to give a thicker appearance.

LOW ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT DuPont™ Corian® is manufactured under strict guidelines to reduce waste and energy consumption throughout the manufacturing process. The material itself, as well as the adhesives used for assembly, are GREEN GUARD Indoor Air certified and produce low levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

 

SOURCE "THE CORIAN BOOK" BY DUPONT CORIAN

https://pdf.archiexpo.com/pdf/corian/corian-book/96-31147.html

 

CORIAN® CARE

Caring for Corian® panels

The natural properties of Corian's solid surface make it extremely easy to clean and maintain.
The non-porous surface is easy to maintain, giving you a countertop that will retain its elegant beauty for years to come.

Cleaning methods:

Always clean in circular motions from front to back and then from side to side.
Gradually overlap the circular motions until the entire surface is cleaned.
Do not use aggressive or abrasive cleaners on high-gloss or dark surfaces.

First treatment of your new Corian® Worktop:

During the first few months after installation, it is recommended that you clean the worktop a few times with a mild abrasive.
scouring agent a few times a week. This is equivalent to a thorough cleaning of the Corian® worktop.

Always clean in a circular motion from front to back and then from side to side.
Gradually overlap the circular motions until the entire surface is cleaned. Dry
with a damp cloth and then wipe completely dry,
to avoid limescale stains.

Daily maintenance:

Daily maintenance is usually as simple as wiping the worktop with a warm damp cloth.
damp cloth. It is advisable to wipe the worktop completely dry afterwards to avoid limescale stains on dark worktops.
dark worktops. 

Weekly maintenance:

It is recommended to clean the worktop once a week with a mild scouring agent.
This will remove microscopic scratches and keep the worktop looking like new.
This is the main difference between Corian® worktops and worktops made from other materials.
materials. You always have a new worktop!

Care of Corian® sinks and countertops:

Normal cleaning can be done with a mild abrasive cleaner, but if the sink or washbasin is very dirty or soiled, cleaning is recommended.
However, if the sink or bowl is very dirty, the following can be done:
Clean the sink or washbasin with a normal detergent. Fill the sink or washbasin with warm water.
Fill the sink or washbasin with warm water and add 2 teaspoons of household bleach. After half an hour
hour, empty the sink or washbasin.

In severe cases, you can leave the mixture in the sink overnight.
In the morning, the sink will be as good as new.

The following liquids can cause stains:

  • Wine, the, vegetable oil, lime water and metal deposits from pots can leave visible stains.

    Visible stains. These stains can be easily removed with a mild scouring agent. Lime stains can be removed

    with a limescale remover.

 Sinks_Daily care:

Daily maintenance of Corian® sinks or washbasins is very easy. Soapy water or ammonia-based
ammonia-based cleaning agents (not window cleaner) remove most stains and dirt. Very stubborn
stains can be removed with a mild scouring agent. Always work in circular motions from
front to back and then from side to side. Gradually overlap the circular movements until the entire surface is cleaned.
until the entire surface is cleaned.

Avoid heat damage:

Protect Corian® surfaces from heat. Always use a heat-protective underlay, a trivet with rubber feet
with rubber feet or a sink mat to protect the surface from hot cookware.
Never place hot pots or pans directly on a worktop or in a Corian® sink.
Always use the correct size of pot or pan on the cooker. Overhanging cookware can scorch
scorch the adjacent surfaces.

Never pour boiling liquids into a Corian® sink or basin.
If you have a tap for boiling hot water, you should not let it run into the sink,
Always pour it into a container.

Heat can cause cracks in your Corian® worktop, these can be repaired by professionals with a wedge.
with a wedge.

Avoid other damage:

In most cases, Corian® can be repaired. To avoid permanent damage to your Corian® worktop,
sink or washbasin, please note the following:

Accidental chemical spills such as paint strippers, brush cleaners, metal cleaners, oven cleaners,
cleaners containing methyl chloride, acidic drain cleaners or acetone-based nail varnish remover should be
should be rinsed off immediately with plenty of soapy water.

Do not cut directly on Corian® worktops, use a cutting board instead. Removal of stains and repair of scratches or burn marks. 

Minor damage:

Stains and scratches do not escape any worktop that is used a lot.
Because Corian® is a solid 12 mm worktop, it is very easy to repair.
Minor damage, scratches, stains, burn marks and small dents are easily removed with an abrasive sponge. 

Medium damage:

Larger damage, no deeper than 1 mm, is easily removed with sandpaper, 400 grit and finish with 600 grit.
Dampen the worktop first to avoid sanding dust. If sanding by hand is not sufficient,
we recommend a random orbital sander. 

Very large damages:

These can be repaired, but this requires the expertise of an expert. In these cases, cut/mill
In these cases, cut/mill a block out of the worktop and then glue a precisely fitted piece of Corian® into the hole.
We do not recommend doing these repairs yourself. Call us if you need help.

 

CORIAN® CARE 

When installed, all Corian® worktops initially have a matt finish. However, with use, Corian® takes on a silky smooth appearance. To ensure that an even shine is achieved, use a mild scouring agent (e.g. Viss, Vif) and a damp cloth for cleaning. Clean the entire work surface with a wet sponge or cloth in circular motions. Then wipe off the cleaning agent with a damp cloth and then dry the surface with a paper kitchen towel or soft cloth. You will be surprised how long Corian® retains its elegant beauty.

Corian® is not self-cleaning, despite claims to the contrary. However, its original appearance can be preserved by simple and proper care

Heat:

Always use a heat-protective underlay, trivet (with rubber feet) or sink mat to protect the surface from hot cookware or let it cool on the cooker.

Never place hot pans, especially cast iron pans directly on a worktop or in a Corian® sink.

Exposure to such heat can damage any surface. -

Never pour boiling liquids into the sink without running cold water at the same time. This could have negative effects over time. -

Always use the correct size pan/pot for the hotplate and always place the pan/pot in the centre of the hotplate. Overhanging cookware can scorch the adjacent surfaces. -

Scratches:

Like all materials, Corian® will show slight signs of wear after a while with normal daily use. Never cut or chop on the Corian® surface - this would scratch the worktop.

Always use a chopping board.

Scratches, dust and normal wear are more visible on dark, heavily pigmented colours than on lighter, textured colours. (Please refer to our colour brochure for detailed information) -.

Chemicals:

Accidental spills of strong chemicals (e.g. paint strippers, brush cleaners, metal cleaners, oven cleaners, cleaners containing methyl chloride, acid drain cleaners, acetone-based nail varnish, etc.) should be rinsed off immediately with plenty of soapy water to avoid damage to work surfaces.

Remove nail varnish with an acetone-free nail varnish remover and rinse with plenty of water.

Unnoticed or prolonged contact with chemicals may cause damage to the surface.

 

(For detailed information on chemical contact, cleaning and general care, please refer to the Corian® data sheet.

This is available from your Corian® supplier.

Exposure and treatment outside the stated specifications will invalidate the 10-year product guarantee.

Any damage caused in this case is due to misuse and will be treated as such).

 

IN THE EVENT!

Corian® is solid by nature and homogeneous through and through.

Because of these properties, it can be easily "renewed".

Most damage, including damage caused by heavy impact, heat or chemicals, can usually be repaired on site.

The surface thus regains its original, smooth, hygienic and solid finish.

 

Download
CORIAN TECHNISCHES DATENBLATT
k-26829_performance_properties_de.pdf
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Wonderfully simple basic cleaning

Simply dampen a soft cloth with a little water and washing-up liquid and wipe the sink and worktop with it. This will prevent dirt or limescale stains from accumulating in the first place, and your stainless steel products will always look and function like new. 

Cleaning and care of stainless steel sinks

Tips for every day

Franke stainless steel sinks are made of chrome-nickel steel of the highest quality. Thanks to this high-quality material, our sinks are a real eye-catcher, but above all, they are dirt-repellent, rust and corrosion resistant. Franke has developed Inox Creme for the care of this wonderful material. This polish is easy to use and effortlessly gives your sink a new shine. Simply apply a little polish to a damp cloth, work it in gently and let it soak in.

Then rinse with water and polish the surfaces with a dry cloth. As an alternative to the Inox cream, you can also use the practical Franke Twister. The integrated sponge makes it easy to clean sinks and basins.

Scratches

Scratches on stainless steel are not a disaster, as long as they are not particularly deep and unsightly. Light scratches even emphasise the silky matt look of our stainless steel surfaces and make them look more and more attractive over time.

Stubborn dirt and rust

Rust on stainless steel is always caused by iron particles of external origin, for example from metal kitchen utensils. To remove rust stains on stainless steel surfaces, we recommend a stainless steel cleaner with oxalic acid. To remove stubborn dirt from stainless steel surfaces, use only mild, non-abrasive cleaning agents and rinse off all cleaning agent residues thoroughly afterwards.

Be sure to observe the most important rule for cleaning stainless steel: NO STEEL WOOL! Our stainless steel products will thank you for it.

What you should protect the surfaces from :

  • Bleaching agents containing hypochlorite

  • Cleaning baths for silver

  • The juice of citrus fruits as well as foods such as salt, vinegar, mustard, mixed pickles or mayonnaise should not come into contact with stainless steel for long periods of time, as they can cause pitting and corrosion.

  • Strong acids such as developer fluids for photography or tooth cleaners should not come into contact with stainless steel. If such substances get on the sink, rinse them off immediately with clear water.

  • Steel wool

Our metal laminate with a surface material made of a thin, anodised aluminium layer.

The HOMAPAL laminate consists of approx. 55% paper, approx. 25% phenol-formaldehyde resin and approx. 20% metal foil. The phenol-formaldehyde resin is irreversibly chemically cross-linked and forms a hardened, stable material whose properties are fundamentally different from those of the base materials.

 

CARE AND CLEANING

Always use a soft, lint-free cloth and a mild detergent for cleaning. Strongly alkaline, strongly acidic and cleaning agents with abrasive components must not be used.

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