MATERIALS & CARE INSTRUCTIONS

No direct contact

Do not place hot, wet or dirty pots and pans on the worktop. The worktop needs extra protection from such things; stainless steel trivets are the perfect addition and can be purchased with your worktop. Most metal containers (e.g. tin and aluminium cans, iron, copper or steel containers) can discolour wood. Contact between metal and wood should therefore be avoided.

Maintenance

Wipe the worktops regularly with a damp (not wet), lint-free cloth using warm water and a small amount of soap. We recommend that you do not use multi-purpose cleaners that contain chemicals as they may damage the worktops. Please also avoid using scouring pads. If a scouring pad is used, the worktop may need to be re-oiled afterwards.

Maintenance oils

To maintain the good quality of your solid wood worktop, you should oil it regularly. Wood is a natural material. Proper oiling is important to ensure a long life without damage. During the first few weeks of use, special care should be taken to ensure that the necessary oil protection is built up. Above all, there must be no liquids on the surface. If the surface is shiny and dripping, this is a sign that the worktop is in good condition.

If the surface is dull and droplets form, you need to re-oil the worktop. You should reapply oil to prevent damage. New worktops often need to be treated again to maintain the protective layer. Depending on wear and tear, you should re-oil regularly. We generally recommend oiling at least every three months.

Propper Cleaning and Maintenance of wooden Furniture

Despite the protective layer of oil, wood panels are not completely protected from dirt and wear. Proper maintenance is essential.

Light dirt and minor stains can usually be removed with a damp, dry cloth. Then wipe with a dry cloth to ensure that the furniture is completely dry.

Cotton, linen, cellulose or microfibre cloths are suitable for cleaning. However, microfibre cloths can leave scratches on the surface due to their abrasive nature. If the cloth is rubbed too hard over the surface, unattractive colour variations may appear on the wood. It is therefore important to test the stain on an inconspicuous area before rubbing the visible surface. If the stain cannot be removed in this way, pH neutral cleaners can be used. The detergent should be used in small doses. Heavy soiling, dents or scratches can be sanded off and a new coat of oil applied. Dust should be removed with a feather duster or duster cloth.

Oil Treatment

To protect the wood, the surface is treated with oil, which makes the wood water-repellent and protects it from dirt. Hard oil has the advantage over varnish that it is absorbed into the wood. A layer of varnish can be removed under high mechanical stress, but the protection remains intact on oiled surfaces. The oil gives the surface a silky matt finish and the natural feel of the wood is retained.

Oiled pieces can be refreshed.

Simply clean and sand the surface. Sand in the direction of the grain. For the final sanding, use very fine sandpaper to achieve a smooth surface.

Thoroughly remove any sanding dust from the surface before oiling. The oil can be applied with a paint roller or a soft cloth until the surface looks slightly damp. Allow the oil to soak in for about a quarter of an hour and wipe off any excess. Leave the board to dry overnight and repeat the process the following day. To maintain the protection, you should re-oil your boards once or twice a year.

We recommend the "Monocoat" or "Naturhaus" products we use.

FENIX, the innovative material from Arpa Industriale, has revolutionised the world of interior design. It is not only beautiful to look at, but above all a high-tech material from nanotechnology, which is unique due to its properties.

FENIX NTM® is made from 70% cellulose and the latest generation of acrylic resins. Heat and pressure act simultaneously on the material during rolling, resulting in a uniform product that has a high density and is non-porous. The surface undergoes a process of electron beam curing, which hardens it and gives it its very own FENIX NTM® properties.

Due to the low light reflection, the surface is extremely matt, has a pleasantly soft feel and offers very good protection against fingerprints and dirt of all kinds. Even with creamed fingers, prints are almost invisible. In case of superficial micro-scratches, the material can be thermally repaired by carefully "ironing" small scratches with an iron and a thin cloth, which works very well.

In addition, FENIX NTM® is antistatic, antibacterial, water-repellent and mould-resistant. According to a study, food can be safely processed on it.

And the new material is also very durable, resistant and easy to clean. It can be cleaned with common household cleaners and also withstands acids well. The material can be used for worktops, kitchen backsplashes, kitchen fronts and side panels. A uniform design of entire kitchen rooms made of just one material is no problem with FENIX NTM®.

However, FENIX NTM® does have one weakness: you should be careful with hot pots and pans and always use a trivet.

Daily care

• Just like any other interior design material, FENIX surfaces should be cleaned regularly. You do not need any special tools, just a cloth moistened with warm water or gentle cleaning agents. Almost all household cleaners or disinfectants are perfectly tolerated. For the usual stains, it is sufficient to clean the surface with warm water and a non-abrasive cloth.

• Particularly good cleaning results are achieved by using a dirt eraser and a little washing-up liquid.

Special care

• In the case of heavy soiling that cannot be removed with standard household cleaners, we recommend cleaning with benzine and a dirt eraser.

Removing scratches with an iron

• Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

• Place a damp piece of kitchen roll on the scratched area.

• Place a hot iron on the piece of kitchen roll and leave it there for no more than 10 minutes.

• Wipe the treated area with lukewarm water and a microfibre cloth.

• The surface should now be intact again.

Removing scratches with the dirt eraser

• Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

• Rub the scratched area with a dry or slightly damp dirt eraser.

• The surface should now be intact again.

Contamination_ Recommended cleaning

• Syrup, fruit juice, milk, tea, coffee, wine, soap, paint Damp sponge or dirt eraser

• Animal fats, sauces, dry blood, dirt eraser with washing-up liquid

• Dried-up alcohol, egg, glue, dried-up organic waste, dirt eraser with hot water and washing-up liquid

• Hair spray, cooking oil, wax, biros Alcohol or benzine with a dirt eraser

• Make-up, sharpie, graffiti, nail varnish First remove nail varnish with nail varnish remover (on a cloth or Zewa)

• and then clean the surface with a dirt eraser, or remove graffiti with petroleum ether and a dirt eraser.

• Synthetic oil paints Nitro thinner with a damp cloth

• Neoprene adhesive trichloroethane with a damp cloth

• Carefully scrape off silicone residues with a wooden or plastic spatula without damaging the surface.

• Lime cleaner with a maximum of 10% acetic or citric acid.

Here are a few videos about it:

FENIX Reinigungs- und Reparaturanleitung

Adobe Acrobat Dokument 731.9 KB

Download

FENIX, the innovative material from Arpa Industriale, has revolutionised the world of interior design. It is not only beautiful to look at, but above all a high-tech material from nanotechnology, which is unique due to its properties.

FENIX NTM® is made from 70% cellulose and the latest generation of acrylic resins. Heat and pressure act simultaneously on the material during rolling, resulting in a uniform product that has a high density and is non-porous. The surface undergoes a process of electron beam curing, which hardens it and gives it its very own FENIX NTM® properties.

Due to the low light reflection, the surface is extremely matt, has a pleasantly soft feel and offers very good protection against fingerprints and dirt of all kinds. Even with creamed fingers, prints are almost invisible. In case of superficial micro-scratches, the material can be thermally repaired by carefully "ironing" small scratches with an iron and a thin cloth, which works very well.

In addition, FENIX NTM® is antistatic, antibacterial, water-repellent and mould-resistant. According to a study, food can be safely processed on it.

And the new material is also very durable, resistant and easy to clean. It can be cleaned with common household cleaners and also withstands acids well. The material can be used for worktops, kitchen backsplashes, kitchen fronts and side panels. A uniform design of entire kitchen rooms made of just one material is no problem with FENIX NTM®.

However, FENIX NTM® does have one weakness: you should be careful with hot pots and pans and always use a trivet.

Daily care

• Just like any other interior design material, FENIX surfaces should be cleaned regularly. You do not need any special tools, just a cloth moistened with warm water or gentle cleaning agents. Almost all household cleaners or disinfectants are perfectly tolerated. For the usual stains, it is sufficient to clean the surface with warm water and a non-abrasive cloth.

• Particularly good cleaning results are achieved by using a dirt eraser and a little washing-up liquid.

Special care

• In the case of heavy soiling that cannot be removed with standard household cleaners, we recommend cleaning with benzine and a dirt eraser.

Removing scratches with an iron

• Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

• Place a damp piece of kitchen roll on the scratched area.

• Place a hot iron on the piece of kitchen roll and leave it there for no more than 10 minutes.

• Wipe the treated area with lukewarm water and a microfibre cloth.

• The surface should now be intact again.

Removing scratches with the dirt eraser

• Superficial damage caused by minor scratches.

• Rub the scratched area with a dry or slightly damp dirt eraser.

• The surface should now be intact again.

Contamination_ Recommended cleaning

• Syrup, fruit juice, milk, tea, coffee, wine, soap, paint Damp sponge or dirt eraser

• Animal fats, sauces, dry blood, dirt eraser with washing-up liquid

• Dried-up alcohol, egg, glue, dried-up organic waste, dirt eraser with hot water and washing-up liquid

• Hair spray, cooking oil, wax, biros Alcohol or benzine with a dirt eraser

• Make-up, sharpie, graffiti, nail varnish First remove nail varnish with nail varnish remover (on a cloth or Zewa)

• and then clean the surface with a dirt eraser, or remove graffiti with petroleum ether and a dirt eraser.

• Synthetic oil paints Nitro thinner with a damp cloth

• Neoprene adhesive trichloroethane with a damp cloth

• Carefully scrape off silicone residues with a wooden or plastic spatula without damaging the surface.

• Lime cleaner with a maximum of 10% acetic or citric acid.

Here are a few videos about it:

FENIX Reinigungs- und Reparaturanleitung

Adobe Acrobat Dokument 731.9 KB

Download

Brass is an alloy of various metals, mainly zinc and copper. The metal has a yellowish, golden hue that can vary depending on the exact composition of the alloy. Copper is mainly obtained from ores. The main copper ores are chalcopyrite, sphalerite and copper shale.

Pure copper has a lustrous reddish-brown colour. When exposed to air, the surface oxidises over time to form a dark brown, matt protective layer. This process makes the metal largely resistant to weathering. The reason for this is the interaction of carbon dioxide and oxygen in a humid environment. In high concentrations, the oxide layer can develop a bright green patina, also known as rust.

Patina is not to be confused with verdigris. Verdigris destroys copper and is extremely toxic.

If you want to clean brass, you don't need any special cleaning products. We will show you some home remedies and explain what to look out for when cleaning brass.

Remove dust

Wipe the item with a dry or damp cloth or rag. This also works for painted and coated items.

Remove fingerprints or grease

Soapy water can help. Simply wipe the item with a sponge or cloth and a little soapy water.

Remove dirt and oxide from shiny brass/copper if patina is not desired

Soak the item in boiling vinegar for a few minutes. Remove with a small sieve, rinse under running water and polish with a dry cloth.

Alternatively, you can brush the item with buttermilk. Rinse after a few minutes and polish dry.

The acid will only react with the oxide and will not attack the brass layer.

To remove and polish stubborn stains

Mix equal parts water, vinegar and flour. Apply the paste to the item in a circular motion and leave to soak for 10 minutes. If necessary, rub a little longer and harder. Rinse off and rub dry.

With these products you should be able to clean and, if necessary, polish most brass items in your home.

You don't need any special cleaning products.

What is the difference between patina and verdigris?

Patina is sometimes colloquially referred to as "verdigris". This term is incorrect!

Verdigris is a water-soluble salt of acetic acid combined with copper and is often confused with patina because of its colour. However, because of its water-solubility, it can never provide a protective function and, in the absence of acetic acid, does not occur in the garden.

The natural brown or green coating on copper surfaces consists mainly of non-toxic Cu(I) oxide and should not be confused with verdigris.

In short, none of the visible green copper surfaces in outdoor areas are actually verdigris, but rather patina or other non-toxic copper compounds.

Dipl.-Ing. M. Werner - German Copper Institute e.V.

Patina

Grey-green surface layer on copper and copper alloys consisting of basic carbonates and sulphates formed by reaction with carbon and sulphur dioxide in the air. Patina, also known as "noble rust", protects copper from weathering. In its distinctive green form, patina appears after approximately 8 to 15 years on flat surfaces exposed to heavy rainfall, depending on the amount of rainfall and the composition of the water.

Verdigris

Chemically speaking, verdigris is actually copper acetate. It is formed when copper comes into contact with acetic acid. However, verdigris is also the colloquial term for the patina that forms on copper and other materials such as brass and wood as a result of weathering and exposure to the elements. In the open air, verdigris can quickly form on metal objects or between paving stones.

Wonderfully simple basic cleaning

Simply dampen a soft cloth with a little water and washing-up liquid and wipe the sink and worktop with it. This will prevent dirt or limescale stains from accumulating in the first place, and your stainless steel products will always look and function like new. 

Cleaning and care of stainless steel sinks

Tips for every day

Franke stainless steel sinks are made of chrome-nickel steel of the highest quality. Thanks to this high-quality material, our sinks are a real eye-catcher, but above all, they are dirt-repellent, rust and corrosion resistant. Franke has developed Inox Creme for the care of this wonderful material. This polish is easy to use and effortlessly gives your sink a new shine. Simply apply a little polish to a damp cloth, work it in gently and let it soak in.

Then rinse with water and polish the surfaces with a dry cloth. As an alternative to the Inox cream, you can also use the practical Franke Twister. The integrated sponge makes it easy to clean sinks and basins.

Scratches

Scratches on stainless steel are not a disaster, as long as they are not particularly deep and unsightly. Light scratches even emphasise the silky matt look of our stainless steel surfaces and make them look more and more attractive over time.

Stubborn dirt and rust

Rust on stainless steel is always caused by iron particles of external origin, for example from metal kitchen utensils. To remove rust stains on stainless steel surfaces, we recommend a stainless steel cleaner with oxalic acid. To remove stubborn dirt from stainless steel surfaces, use only mild, non-abrasive cleaning agents and rinse off all cleaning agent residues thoroughly afterwards.

Be sure to observe the most important rule for cleaning stainless steel: NO STEEL WOOL! Our stainless steel products will thank you for it.

What you should protect the surfaces from :

• Bleaching agents containing hypochlorite

• Cleaning baths for silver

• The juice of citrus fruits as well as foods such as salt, vinegar, mustard, mixed pickles or mayonnaise should not come into contact with stainless steel for long periods of time, as they can cause pitting and corrosion.

• Strong acids such as developer fluids for photography or tooth cleaners should not come into contact with stainless steel. If such substances get on the sink, rinse them off immediately with clear water.

• Steel wool